August 23 - An Early Morning - part 2

We are back from Manyana and we were unsuccessful in seeing the rock paintings. Bone took us because we needed permission from the Chief to visit the area. No one was in the Ktogla in Manyana, and since we knew no one who lives there, we came to a dead end - no permission, no visit. Since Anita and I were in slacks from the cool morning, we waited in the car while Bone entered to find if some one could grant permission.

This brings me to an opportunity to answer a question from a reader about our previous visit to Moshupa's ktogla. I knew from our visit in 1990 that a skirt would be necessary should be be in the presence of Moshupa's chief, so I suggested Anita pack a dress or skirt for that specific purpose. We tried the morning of our visit to Mosupha's ktogla to find a family MALE friend to accompany us, and were unsuccessful. Although Njale tells me that she was not scolded for bringing us and introducing us to the Chief, I believe she was. I could not understand what was said as it was in Setswana, but the tone was scolding. Not bad - like a father to a child.

I had suggested the visit because of the unusual nature of living with hereditary tribal chiefs who can dictate actions such as women not wearing pants in his presence and using particular gates for coming and going and being allowed only in parts of the enclosure. At the museum in Mochudi the other day, we read that it was only after 1972 that women were actually allowed to speak in tribal meetings - attendance was OK I guess, speaking was not.

Njale and I spoke that evening about the struggle that women have all over the world becoming enabled. Our conversation began as she translated the discussion on a show on Botswana TV. A woman moderator was guiding a discussion on how the changes in women's ways and attitudes are undermining the strength and position of men in Botswana society. Njale and I agreed that what has been happening in Botswana and other developing nations is very similar to the rights of women in England and America with the suffragettes. Women must fight for themselves everywhere it seems, and in some countries, women are moving ahead. Botswana women are moving ahead now and it is causing family difficulties - men leave women to care for the children and to do what they want. One billboard I saw talked about small houses creating more opportunities for the spread of HIV/AIDS. The implication is that small, multi-generational houses put women at greater risk.

The questioner also asked if the visit to the Chief had anything to do with Brian's pension which was mentioned in one earlier post. No, thankfully, I guess, the chief has nothing (at least that I am aware of) with the delivery of the money due to Njale and the children from the University.

Another comment was related to our continuing difficulties with the satellite TV system in the house while Refilwe was away and that young folks seem to handle technology with no worries. The last day we spent without Refilwe was spent totally without TV - we actually had to talk to each other last night. Some how the 'parental controls' were activated and we were locked out of every single station. By the time we woke up this morning, all was fixed. Either Refilwe or Bone fixed as the arrived around midnight, and neither is telling how. Keeps us under control, I guess.

I've been to the garden again to take photos in the sunshine. Anita's little point and shot camera takes wonderful photos in total darkness, so we have some photos of our little ceremony this morning. We will share these only with family, and I am certain everyone will understand.

























This last view shows the location of the garden in relation to the house. It is in the front corner of the property right inside the wall that surrounds the home. You can also see the relationship between the first home and the more traditional home with the slanted roof, where the family lives now.





I had planned to place some birthday wishes at the end of appropriate posts, as a number of friends are celebrating special days while I am gone. That thought went out of my head until last evening when it suddenly reappeared. So let me wish...

BELATED BIRTHDAYS TO...

• Kenny Barnes and Liz Lancaster on August 12th
• Michele Happel on August 16th
• Jake Weisfeld on August 17th
• Robert Lockett on August 21st
• Carol Cooper on August 22nd
• My cousin, Sharon Lee Moss Buck today
  

BELATED HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO...

• Trish and Bob Hemler on August 19th

Something is smelling pretty good at the other end of the house. Perhaps some lunch is ready. It's just after 1 pm local time.

Weather is sunny and warm. Mornings have been cool enough for a second layer, but warm enough for light weight short sleeves by 10 am and shorter pants. Many locals consider this to be winter and are still wearing sweaters, coats and hats. Brian had the same difficulty coming to the US after living here - his blood had thinned and he was cold most of the time.

See you in the next report.